Instrument for altering garment patterns

ABSTRACT

An instrument for altering patterns and making garment changes comprises a transparent ruler having on one side of straightedge and on the opposite side a curved edge one section of which constitutes a hip curve of long radius of curvature and a second section of which constitutes an armhole curve of shorter radius of curvature which curves over beyond a projection of the straightedge and then back to one extremity of the straightedge to provide a shape resembling the letter J. There are calibrated scales on both the straight and curved edges, a series of scaled lines parallel to the straightedge and also an elongate slot parallel to the straightedge.

United States Patent Impastato [4 Feb. 8, 1972 [54] INSTRUMENT FOR ALTERING GARMENT PATTERNS [72] Inventor: Leona Rocha Impastato, 315 East 86th St., New York, NY. 10028 221 Filed: Jan. 26, 1970 211 Appl.No.: 5,587

FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 509,365 1/1955 Italy ..33/1 B Primary Examiner-Harry N. Haroian AtrorneyRobert E. Burns and Emmanuel .l. Lobato 5 7] ABSTRACT An instrument for altering patterns and making garment changes comprises a transparent ruler having on one side of straightedge and on the opposite side a curved edge one section of which constitutes a hip curve of long radius of curvature and a second section of which constitutes an armhole curve of shorter radius of curvature which curves over beyond a projection of the straightedge and then back to one extremity of the straightedge to provide a shape resembling the letter J. There are ca1ibrated scales on both the straight and curved edges, a series of. scaled lines parallel to the straightedge and also an elongate slot parallel to the straightedge.

7 Claims, 11 Drawing Figures INSTRUMENT FOR ALTERING GARMENT PATTERNS The present invention relates to an instrument for use in making or altering wearing apparel and in particular to an instrument for altering patterns and the making garment changes.

In making wearing apparel it frequently happens that modifications must be made in order for a garment to fit properly the person for which it is intended. The modifications may be made in either in the paper pattern which is used in cutting pieces of material for the garment, or in the pieces of material themselves after they have been cut.

In making'such alterations it has heretofore been necessary for the gannent maker or seamstress to use a number of different instruments for modifying different parts of a garment to make the alterations freehand without instruments. If several different instruments are used, it is frequently inconvenient to have all of the instruments at hand for ready use and to have to change instruments when making modifications in different portions of the garment. If a freehand method of alterations is used, a considerably amount of skill is required and even then the results are apt to be unsatisfactory.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a single instrument that can conveniently be used for making accurate alterations in all of the different portions of a garment. For example, the instrument may be used for increasing or decreasing the waist measurement, modifying an armhole or the neckline, decreasing or increasing shoulder seams, marking hem lines or seam lines, increasing or decreasing the hip area, modifying raglan or kimono sleeves, shortening the bodice, marking in curved darts and shaping the waist or bodice portions of dresses. By increasing the convenience in making alterations, the instrument of the present invention makes possible a considerable saving of time and effort.

The instrument in accordance with the present invention is suitable for use not only by professionals or semiprofessionals but also by women who sew for themselves or for their friends or children. Moreover, it can be made inexpensive so that it can be afforded not only by professional or semiprofessional dressmakers but also by individuals.

The nature and advantages of the invention will be understood more clearly from the following description in conjunction with the drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a plan view on a somewhat reduced scale of an instrument in accordance with the invention, and

FIGS. 2 through 11 illustrate schematically the manner in which the instrument can be used to make representative alterations in garments or garment patterns.

The embodiment of the invention shown in the drawings comprises an instrument 1 made of transparent material, for example transparent plastic such as plexiglass, which is chemically and dimensionally stable and of sufficient thickness, as for example one-sixteenth inch, to be flexible and resilient while being selfsupporting so as normally to remain flat. The instrument has a straightedge portion 2, a square end portion 3 and a curved edge portion 4 which starts from the end edge portion 3, diverges from the straightedge portion 2 to a zone of maximum width and then converges toward the straightedge portion and crosses a projection of the straightedge portion and finally curves back to join the straightedge portion in an inside curve 5. The curved edge portion 4 thus provides a curved side portion 4a and a curved end 4b.

A scale 6 which is shown in inches extends the full length of the straight edge portion 2 starting at the square end 3. In the examples shown in the drawings, the length of the straight edge is 16 inches. There are also provided a number of lines 7 which are parallel to the straightedge 2. The lines 7 are spaced apart from one another a selected distance, for example oneeighth inch, and the distance of each line from the straight edge 2 is indicated by a scale 70 at the end of the lines opposite the square end 3 of the instrument. In the examples shown in the drawings there are eight lines 7, the last of which is spaced 1 inch from the straightedge 2. The lines of the scale 6 cross the parallel lines 7 forming a pattern of iii-inch squares.

A calibrated scale is also provided along the curved edge 4 starting at the square end 3. This scale 8 is calibrated in inches but it will be understood that other calibrations, for example a metric scale can be used for all of the calibrations on the instrument. The numerals of the scale 8 are arranged so that they are right side up when the instrument is held so that the square end 3 is up.

While the dimensions of the instrument are subject to a certain amount of variation, it has been found that an instrument having dimensions corresponding at least approximately to those shown in the drawings is highly suitable and convenient for its intended use.

As seen in the drawings, the straight edge portion 2 is l6 inches long, while the calibrated portion of the curved edge 4 is 26 inches. The distance of the curved edge 4 from the straightedge 2 is approximately 2 inches at the square end 3, 3 inches at its portion of maximum divergence at about the 12 inch mark and two and a half inches at the 16 inch point of the straightedge.

The curvature of the curved edge portion 4 varies at different points about its length, the radius of curvature being greatest in the portion adjacent the square end 3. The first 6 inches of the curved edge 4 are almost straight. The curvature gradually and progressively increases until at the 8 inch mark the radius of curvature is about 25 inches and at the 16 inch mark it is about 15 inches. From the 16 inch mark, the radius of the curvature of the curved edge continues to decrease to about 5 inches at the 19 inch mark. Beyond the 19 inch mark the curvature increases still more rapidly with the corresponding decrease in the radius of curvature until the radius of curvature in the portion extending from the 23 inch mark to the 26 inch mark is approximately 2 inches. The last portion of the curved edge started approximately at the 22 inch mark is approximately semicircular and a hole 9 is provided at its center. Beyond this portion, the edge straightens out and reverses to merge into the inside curve 5 joining the curved edge 4 with the straight edge 2. Another hole 10 is provided near the square end 3 of the instrument for convenience in hanging the instrument on a nail or hook.

The instrument is also provided with an elongated slot II which is located approximately midway between the straightedge 2 and curved edge 4 and is parallel to the straightedge. The slot 11 is shown as extending for a length of approximately l2 inches from the 3 inch to the 15 inch calibration of the straightedge scale 6. The slot is of sufficient width to accommodate an instrument such as a pencil, tailors marking chalk or a marking wheel to mark a straight line along a pattern orpiece of material. The instrument is further provided with indicia 12 indicating the relationship between yards and inches.

FIGS. 2 to II are small scale schematic drawings illustrating by way of example the way in which an instrument in accordance with the invention may be used in modifying patterns or pieces of material constituting components of a garment. The patterns or pieces of material that are to be altered or adjusted are shown schematically in dot-dash lines.

FIG. 2 illustrates use of the instrument for increasing the waist of a garment. The straight edge 2 is placed at the intersection of the armhole and side seam and is angled out to increase the waist measurement. A line is drawn along the straight edge on excess material with which a pattern is customarily provided or on material that has been added to the pattern, for example with adhesive plastic tape. Conversely, the straight edge can be angled in from the intersection of the armhole and the side seam to decrease the waist measurement.

FIG. 3 illustrates use of the instrument for dropping an armhole. The instrument is placed as shown with the square end up and the curved end 4b down. The curved edge of the instrument provides a guideline for marking the desired change in the armhole.

FIG. 4 illustrates use of the instrument in increasing a raglan or kimono sleeve. The curved edge of the instrument is placed along the seam line with the square end 3 approximately at the neckline. It is adjusted up or down to provide the width of sleeve desired. Conversely, the instrument can be used in similar manner for decreasing the width of the sleeve.

FIG. 5 illustrates use of the instrument in lowering a neckline. The curved end portion of the instrument is placed along the neckline and adjusted to provide the desired lowering. Conversely, the instrument can be used in similar manner to raise the neckline.

FIG. 6 illustrates use of the instrument for increasing a shoulder seam. The curved end of the instrument is placed approximately coincident with the intersection of the armhole and the side seam and the instrument is angled out, as shown, to provide the desired increase of the shoulder seam. Conversely, it can be tilted toward the neckline to decrease the length of the shoulder seam.

FIG. 7 illustrates use of the instrument for shortening a bodice. The instrument is laid on the pattern with the curved edge portion 4a spaced upwardly from the. lower edge of the pattern which can be seen through the transparent instrument. Conversely, the instrument can be moved downwardly to provide a lengthening of the bodice.

FIG. 8 illustrates use of the instrument for marking A-line or circular hems. The long curved edge 4a is used to mark the hem of a circular hem or A-line skirt.

FIG. 9 illustrates use of the instrument for increasing the hip area. The instrument is placed on the pattern with the square end down and the curved end projecting above the waistline. The curved edge 40 is then used to mark a new hip line. It will be understood that, in this manner, the hop area may be increased or decreased as desired.

FIG. 10 illustrates use of the instrument for marking in curved darts. The curved side 4a is used to mark a curved line for a dart instead of a straight line as is commonly used.

FIG. 1 1 illustrates use of the instrument for shaping dresses. The long curved edge 4a is used to shape the side seam, for example of a one-piece garment such as a chemise or shift.

While there have been illustrated in the drawings a number of ways of using the instrument, it will be understood that the instrument may be used in many other ways. For example, a selected one of the parallel lines 7 can be laid along the edge of a pattern or piece of material and a line drawn along the straight edge 2 or the slot 11 to mark a line parallel to, but

spaced from, the original edge. The scale 6 of the straight edge or, if desired, the scale 8 of the curved edge may be used for making any desired measurements, for example to lengthen or shorten a hem.

What I claim and desire to secure by letters patent is:

1. An instrument for altering garment patterns and making garment changes comprising transparent sheet material having an elongate straight edge portion, a relatively short end edge portion at one end of said straight edge portion and perpendicular to said straightedge portion, a curved edge portion comprising successively a first section starting at said end edge portion, diverging gradually from said straightedge portion for approximately half its length and then converging toward said straight portion, a second second of progressively increasing curvature, crossing to the opposite side of a projection of said straight edge portion, a third section substantially concentric to a center ofi'set from said straight edge portion projection on said opposite side thereof, a fourth section extending back toward said straight edge portion and a fifth section which is reversely curved and merges tangentially into said fourth section and said straight edge portion, said straightedge portion, end edge portion and said first section of said curved edge portion defining a blade portion of said instrument and said second, third, fourth and fifth sections defining a head portion at the opposite end of said straightedge portion from said short end edge portion, said blade portion lying at one side of said straight edge portion and having a maximum width of the order of three-sixteenths of the length of said straight edge portion, and said head portion extending to the opposite side of said straight edge portion a distance approximately equal to said maximum width of said blade portion, said first section of gradual curvature constituting a hip curve with a length corresponding approximately to the length of said straight edge portion and merging into said second section of greatly increased curvature constituting an armhole curve, means defining a calibrated scale extending along said curved edge portion throughout said first section and at least part of said second section beyond the point at which said curved edge portion crosses the projection of said straight edge portion, means defining a calibrated scale extending along said straightedge portion throughout substantially its whole length and means defining uniform spaced lines parallel'to the edge of said straight edge portion, said lines extending from said short end edge portion substantially the whole length of said blade portion.

2. An instrument according to claim 1, further comprising means adjacent said parallel lines defining a scale designating the distance of the respective lines from the edge of said straightedge portion.

3. An instrument according to claim 1, further comprising means defining an elongate straight slot having spaced opposite edges parallel to said straightedge portion.

4. An instrument according to claim 1, in which the length of said straightedge portion is of the order of 16 inches and the overall length of said instrument is of the order of twenty inches.

5. An instrument according to claim 4, in which the curvature of said curved edge portion progressively varies from a curvature approaching a straight line at the beginning of said first section adjacent said end edge portion to a curvature having a radius of curvature of the order of 2 inches in said third section.

6. An instrument according to claim 1, further comprising means defining a small circular hole at approximately the center of curvature of a part of said third section of said curved edge portion.

7. An instrument according to claim 6, in which said circular hole is on one side of a projection of said straightedge portion and said first section of said curved edge is on the opposite side of said straightedge portion.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent No. 3,639,988 Dated February 8, 1972 Inventm-(g) Leona Rocha Impastato It is certified that error appears in the above-identified'patent and that said Letters Patent are hereby corrected as shown below:

Column 3, last line, delete "second" second occurrence and insert -section--.

Signed and sealed this 15th day of April 1975.

SEAL) fattest:

v C. LLARSHALL DAZZN C. ILASOP' Comtni ssioner of Patents Ritesting fficer and Trademarks ORM PO-105O (1069) USCOMM-DC GONG-P69 II us. GOVERNMENT rnm'rmo ornct: I959 o-aee-au 

1. An instrument for altering garment patterns and making garment changes comprising transparent sheet material having an elongate straight edge portion, a relatively short end edge portion at one end of said straight edge portion and perpendicular to said straightedge portion, a curved edge portion comprising successively a first section starting at said end edge portion, diverging gradually from said straightedge portion for approximately half its length and then converging toward said straight portion, a second section of progressively increasing curvature, crossing to the opposite side of a projection of said straight edge portion, a third section substantially concentric to a center offset from said straight edge portion projection on said opposite side thereof, a fourth section extending back toward said straight edge portion and a fifth section which is reversely curved and merges tangentially into said fourth section and said straight edge portion, said straightedge portion, end edge portion and said first section of said curved edge portion defining a blade portion of said instrument and said second, third, fourth and fifth sections defining a head portion at the opposite end of said straightedge portion from said short end edge portion, said blade portion lying at one side of said straight edge portion and having a maximum width of the order of three-sixteenths of the length of said straight edge portion, and said head portion extending to the opposite side of said straight edge portion a distance approximately equal to said maximum width of said blade portion, said first section of gradual curvature constituting a hip curve with a length corresponding approximately to the length of said straight edge portion and merging into said second section of greatly increased curvature constituting an armhole curve, means defining a calibrated scale extending along said curved edge portion throughout said first section and at least part of said second section beyond the point at which said curved edge portion crosses the projection of said straight edge portion, means defining a calibrated scale extending along said straightedge portion throughout substantially its whole length and means defining uniform spaced lines parallel to the edge of said straight edge portion, said lines extending from said short end edge portion substantially the whole length of said blade portion.
 2. An instrument according to claim 1, further comprising means adjacent said parallel lines defining a scale designating the distance of the respective lines from the edge of said straightedge portion.
 3. An instrument according to claim 1, further comprising means defining an elongate straight slot having spaced opposite edges parallel to said straightedge portion.
 4. An instrument according to claim 1, in which the length of said straightedge portion is of the order of 16 inches and the overall length of said instrument is of the order of twenty inches.
 5. An instrument according to claim 4, in which the curvature of said curved edge portion progressively varies from a curvature approaching a straight line at the beginning of said first section adjacent said end edge portion to a curvature having a radius of curvature of the order of 2 inches in said third section.
 6. An instrument according to claim 1, further comprising means defining a small circular hole at approximately the center of curvature of a part of Said third section of said curved edge portion.
 7. An instrument according to claim 6, in which said circular hole is on one side of a projection of said straightedge portion and said first section of said curved edge is on the opposite side of said straightedge portion. 